#6. Chiller. First Launch
November 29, 2019 • ☕️ 5 min read
You can read this post in: English • Русский
First launch of the chiller.
Read the Transcript
- As one man which I really respect says: “Thousands want, hundreds can, and only a few people do”
- So, let’s do it!
- Greetings ladies and gents!
- In this video, we’ll talk about the cooling machine, or the chiller.
- Initially, I wanted to install a compressor with an electric power of 2.5 kW
- But then when it came to soldering the chiller, I got serious doubts
- I have, or rather had, 2 air conditioners
- So, I decided to make some experiments first
- On one of the conditioners
- with the electric power of 750 W
- For starters and general understanding how it works this should be enough
- To get some conclusions, on the one hand,
- on the other hand, we’ll clean the system after soldering
- Anyway if changing the compressor on the chiller
- we’ll have to get the freon out of the system
- You’ll see what we’ve got from the air conditioner
- Of course, this power won’t be enough for heating the whole house
- I also had this idea that the next step
- should be to install two compressors in parallel
- and see what we’ll get from this
- It’d be very interesting to do
- I disassembled the conditioner that hung on my wall
- the compressor was already “dead” there
- I used some part from it
- Here are the remnants of that conditioner, the patient, so to speak
- And here’s what we’ve got from it
- I’ll need to fasten the heat exchanger
- I made some holes for this thing.
- A couple of words about how it works
- If we go from the evaporator
- The steam will go through this pipe
- It enters the tubular heat exchanger, goes around in a circle
- then it goes into the filter and compressor
- Out of the compressor, it goes into the condenser
- Out of the condenser, the pipe goes through the inspection glass into the heat exchanger
- Here, the condensed freon cools down and the gaseous freon heats up
- The evaporator will work at +8 degrees
- 25 - 8 = 17
- So, we’ll need to somehow take away 17 degrees
- They’ll be taken away exactly in this tubular heat exchanger
- So the compressor will be receiving not +8, but +25 degrees for the input. In the ideal case.
- Out of this heat exchanger comes already condensed liquid phase of freon through a capillary tube
- Which remained from original air conditioner
- And here it’ll be connected to the evaporator. I’ll show you that later
- Cats are really helpful here
- Here they are, two pipes
- The gas will go in through the upper pipe
- The liquid phase will return along the thin bottom one
- Everything is ready for the evacuation
- Now I understand why the vacuum was weak last time
- The oil level was low
- And that’s why it didn’t pump so good
- Yesterday it was evacuating for 20-25 minutes. Today it’s 25 minutes
- We can see the result on the left pressure gauge
- I did a freon blowing several times, the same as with heat pipes
- I was closing the low pressure, let out some freon and then pumped it out
- In that way I replaced the air leftovers with freon and then pumped out
- Why do we need such a long evacuation?
- In order to evaporate moisture. The same process happens that I talked about
- Water begins to boil at low temperatures
- The task of evacuation is to get rid of moisture in the system
- I think it’s time to stop and refuel.
- I use the original condenser
- It’s connected directly, without any blocks to the compressor
- The compressor is “spinning” right now
- Theoretically, it should evacuate the gas phase from this cylinder
- Now it’s open
- The red valve is open, the blue one - closed
- We’ll see. Maybe I’m doing something wrong…
- To speed up the process, I put R22 in a cup of warm water, so that it evaporates better
- I see that the pressure has risen
- We also see a liquid phase in a control window
- The condenser has warmed up. I can barely hold it. I think it’s time to connect the heating system.
- Next, I’ll need to refuel it. Otherwise, I’m afraid that the compressor will overheat.
- Then I heard a strange hissing. Everything seemed fine before.
- Looks like leakage from under the thread
- Looks like it’s this part
- of the capillary tube was cooled to a negative temperature
- We’ve seen frost right here
- So, it cooled down
- I turned off the system
- And when it heated up again - it started to leak
- Or I didn’t tight the nut enough
- Now I’ve made a bigger flange for the nut and tighten it better
- What should I do in this situation? Should I let out the freon completely
- and evacuate the system again
- But I want to try something different
- It depressurized at the exit, and there is a back valve in the compressor
- and if we’ll evacuate here
- then this part of the system will not evacuate until we open both valves
- I closed both valves for now. The lower and the upper one.
- I don’t want to completely let out all the freon. Quite a lot of it was * pumped in already
- About 300 grams.
- I want to try the following:
- I’ll slightly open up the top valve,
- And it’ll start to push out the gas
- It couldn’t let in much through the capillary
- Then I’ll pump the system with freon
- Slightly open this valve to let out
- the remaining air
- So, that’s my plan of actions
- Of course I can freak something up
- It’s only an experiment after all
- So what have we got here. The system in its current state doesn’t work right.
- Because the outlet pipe freezes after the capillary tube
- The temperature reaches somewhere about -14, -15 degrees. It’s not good
- Why is this happening? This is due to the fact that the throughput is * not regulated
- Operating conditions have changed
- The amount of freon, the volume of evaporators, condensers has changed
- The system has changed completely
- In stationary conditions, the capillary tube is selected for a specific air conditioner and everything works quite well
- If no freon leak occurred or some other failure
- In my case, I need to adjust it to the system
- Or pick up a suitable capillary tube
- Which is a real headache. Each time it needs to be changed, lengthened, shortened
- It probably can be solved somehow
- The second option is to install a thermostatic valve.
- Which is what I’m actually leaning towards