#5. Geothermal probes. Thermal siphon.

November 22, 2019 • ☕️☕️ 9 min read

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Geothermal probes. Thermal siphon.

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  • Greetings, my dears!
  • As kids get older, the toys get more expensive
  • Let`s have a real fun
  • In today’s series
  • We’ll look at
  • the design of the geothermal probe
  • And start to assemble it
  • I’d like to reveal a part of the intrigue
  • What is a geothermal probe?
  • In this case it’s a thermal siphon
  • Thermal siphon is a special case of a heat pipe
  • How does it work?
  • It’s a soldered pipe
  • Let’s imagine that it’s a shut from both ends pipe
  • If we somehow manage to pump the air out of it
  • And fill it with, for example, water
  • What will happen?
  • First of all, water will accumulate at the bottom
  • Saturated steam will rise to the top
  • If we bring the heat to this point
  • The water will start to boil
  • At any temperature
  • It can be 20 degrees
  • Here it’s 10, here - 20
  • The water is boiling and condenses
  • Transfers heat
  • And this point is heating up
  • almost to the temperature of the lower point
  • And backwards
  • Water condenses here
  • And under the influence of gravitational forces
  • flows down the walls of the tube to the very bottom
  • When it’s flowing on the walls
  • if we apply heat here
  • the water will evaporate here
  • As it flows
  • and condense here
  • And the whole process will repeat again
  • There’s some disadvantage
  • of using water in the thermal siphon
  • That it will work
  • up to +5 degrees, maybe up to 0 degrees.
  • If you need precise numbers, Google it
  • So we won’t use water here
  • But another gas
  • As a variant we can use refrigerant here
  • Any of the available
  • There will be high pressure in the pipe
  • Depending on the temperature
  • one, two, three, maybe five atmospheres
  • You can check out tables that show this info
  • What’s nice about the variant
  • when the thermosiphon is under high pressure
  • Is that
  • firstly, you can detect leakage
  • by simple soaping
  • But if it’s going to be under the low pressure
  • when, for example, water
  • can boil even at +50 degrees
  • for it to boil at +50 degrees
  • there should be 0.1 or 0.2 of atmospheric pressure
  • In this case, if depressurization happens
  • The air flows inside through the small hole
  • And the thermal siphon stops working
  • Here’s what, in short, a geothermal probe
  • Now I’ll show you how
  • I’ll be assembling it
  • You already saw how I soldered the pipe
  • This one
  • It has 2 ends
  • For refueling from this side
  • a Schrader valve
  • 1/2 inch thread from the other side
  • On which we will put the connector
  • half-inch to
  • 16 mm
  • of metal-plastic pipe
  • I got reinforced connectors
  • At first I was confused that
  • This connector consists of 2 parts
  • You can see that it has two parts
  • I opened it from this side
  • It’s all done good here
  • Looks like they are soldered and then
  • it’s treated with a cutter
  • and polished
  • You really can’t tell that there’s two parts
  • Oh, here it is, I just saw it
  • Here it’s assembled in one
  • But you still can disconnect the parts
  • It should be airtight
  • We’ll see
  • We’ll replace them if something happens
  • So, I take the silicone
  • Smear it all over the thread
  • The sealant, to be more precise
  • Silicone is a special case here
  • Next, I take my favorite tow
  • and wind it up here
  • Using tow here is reliable
  • for cases like this one
  • All these FUM tapes
  • and other crap
  • works much worse
  • Or I’ll need to learn how to use them
  • Than silicon + tow
  • At home, the entire heating system is mounted in this way
  • So far, not even one leakage detected
  • Now I’ll do all of them it this way and we’ll continue
  • Started doing connections
  • of the metal-plastic pipes
  • What should be noted here
  • in this construction
  • among useful things
  • that it assembles quite easy
  • Whoop and it’s ready
  • Then you need to only slightly adjust it
  • bend it this way
  • And it sits on it’s place
  • Tighten it up
  • Superb!
  • In comparison with the usual connectors - night and day
  • I’m not sure how much better it’ll be
  • Will there be more problems or not
  • We’ll see
  • Also, it should be noted that
  • All pipes must be at an angle
  • slight angle
  • They must be angled towards the ground
  • If there will be a counter-angle
  • the moisture will accumulate there
  • Bending it
  • At the end of the assembly
  • I’ll make a video
  • of how it’ll all look
  • Ok, now it looks like that
  • looks cool, right?
  • It’s a view from the top
  • I’ll need to make it more presentable
  • But I want to touch a thermal syphon question again
  • I had a problem - what to fill a thermal siphon with?
  • As I mentioned earlier, it should be under the excess pressure
  • In our case, the operating temperature range
  • at which thermal siphons will work
  • is going to be about
  • -10 degrees, that’s a minimum
  • We’ll say starting from -10 degrees
  • up to +10 - +20 degrees
  • What to fill it with?
  • I was banging my head…
  • If we fill it with
  • At first I had an idea to fill it with propane-butane
  • But then most of the work would’ve been done by propane
  • A the butane would’ve been a simple ballast
  • But a propane at +10 already has 4 atmospheres
  • And it’s a quite high pressure
  • The same goes for
  • the freons of type R22 and others
  • At first,
  • And then I thought, maybe fill it with butane?
  • But butane has slight disadvantage
  • It starts to boil at the atmospheric pressure of -0.5 degrees
  • Which means that if the temperature drops in our thermal siphons
  • the pressure will be below atmospheric
  • And I don’t like that
  • Then the great MR. FREEZE - Roman Aleksandrovych
  • You’ll meet him later
  • Made a valuable suggestion
  • Did you know that there’s a thing called “isobutane”?
  • And this thing…
  • So called R600A
  • Which can be purchased in a clean form
  • in the cylinders
  • For a reasonable money
  • About 200+ hryvnas ($10)
  • So, I chose it right away
  • I read a bit on that topic. Turns out that
  • it starts to boil at -10 degrees
  • which is ideal
  • At +10 degrees it has 2 atmospheres
  • of absolute pressure or one of redundant pressure
  • Seem pretty great from my point of view…
  • Not to mention that it’s harmless for the ozone layer
  • According to my calculations
  • the pipe needs to be filled with 25 grams of refrigerant
  • Each pipe will have about 0.5 meters
  • of liquid
  • And we don’t really need more
  • or less
  • It’ll be hard to measure 25 grams
  • We’ll have to put up a laboratory or kitchen scales
  • which can measure these 25 grams
  • I’ll show you how it’s done
  • Before thermal syphons refueling
  • I decided to check the temperature
  • on the probes thermal sensors
  • This will be a reference data
  • for further observations
  • 4 days have passed
  • Almost 5 after refueling
  • with the pressurized air
  • This one let out almost all the air
  • I decided that it was a faulty Schroeder’s valve.
  • These ones - the pressure was a bit lower
  • This guy and this one too
  • When I pumped in compressed air
  • I screwed the cap not very tight
  • screwed it very lightly
  • And apparently the air got through the valve
  • Because I was doing crimping again
  • soaped it again
  • If there’s a leakage
  • it should be at the end of the pipe
  • I’ll fuel it now
  • And then we’ll see
  • If the pipes will stop working
  • we’ll need to
  • either pour something at the bottom
  • to seal
  • the holes
  • It can be done
  • there’s a spray for fixing broken tyres
  • and this spray seals the tyre. We’ll see.
  • We’ll fill in about 25 grams
  • of Freon R600A
  • And then we’ll start the assembly
  • of the compressor
  • If you noticed
  • you now can see that it’s connected
  • to the heating line
  • Both of these pipes
  • I made it before refueling R600A
  • for the reason that
  • it’s flammable
  • and it’s heavier than the air
  • It’ll accumulate here
  • If in the future I will be doing some work here
  • the pit needs to be pretty well ventilated
  • before using open flame
  • And only after ventilation I’ll be able to work here
  • Or there will be a “BIG BANG BADA BOOM!!”
  • The pit is small, nobody will hear the bang :)
  • Alright, we’re doing the first stage of thermal siphons fueling
  • we’re vacuuming the system
  • The process is slow
  • Especially, counting that I bought
  • a cheap vacuum pump
  • it’s productivity is 24 liters
  • one of the weakest pumps
  • I bought it
  • real cheap
  • to make my experiments less expensive
  • And second - it has 2 speeds
  • The vacuum degree should be higher.
  • We’re not in a hurry
  • All we need is a better vacuum degree
  • And how much it’s gonna take - really does not matter
  • It costs about $90
  • Plus refueling collector for $30
  • Moving on
  • That’s how I adapted the scales
  • Because the hose at the top affects readings
  • A little life hack
  • when refueling thermal siphons
  • you fuel them to a certain degree of vacuum
  • then close the valve
  • And for a second
  • open the freon
  • just a tiny bit
  • We let the freon into the system
  • And because it’s heavier than air
  • it should go down in the tube
  • and the air should go up
  • they’ll partially mix
  • After that
  • open up the compressor valve
  • and pump out the mixture
  • The compressor sound changes
  • pump it out
  • Then
  • Close it and stop the vacuum pump
  • flip the cylinder upside down
  • I don’t know if I can take it off
  • Cylinder in the hands. Turning off the compressor.
  • Close here
  • Letting out the gas
  • The cylinder is in my hands, turned upside down
  • Here’s it
  • I hold it with my hands
  • heating it up a bit
  • The ground and air temperatures are almost the same
  • About +8 degrees
  • It’s fueled up
  • So here’s it
  • I’ll let it pump further
  • Cut it out
  • The cylinder is turned upside down
  • I put the cylinder
  • on the scales
  • To roughly estimate the weight
  • Around 550 gram
  • Now it’s 526
  • Of course it would’ve been nice
  • to hang it somewhere
  • It ran out quietly here
  • If it doesn’t run out, I warm it up a bit with my finger
  • and it starts to run out
  • We’ll need to wait
  • until the pipes are empty
  • I’m trying to warm it up
  • with my hands
  • That’s it
  • So, the cylinder is empty
  • It’s reusable
  • We’ll try to refuel it
  • Not sure how it’ll go
  • because when I was disconnecting it
  • residual gas escaped through the valve
  • Maybe the Schrader valve got frozen
  • We’ll see
  • Alright guys,
  • In the next video we’ll look at
  • the compressor
  • How the cooling machine is made
  • We’ll see how it all turns out when we connect it
  • See yall!